Semantics

Sweater December

2011-12-17T23:00:00.000-08:00

The Pit's End

2011-11-12T11:41:00.000-08:00

Teasing is over. Enjoy the video.

GEOMETRIC NIGHTMARE [autumn/winter 2011] from Autie Carlisle on Vimeo.

Teased

2011-09-18T16:26:00.000-07:00

Geometric Nightmare {Coming Soon} from Autie Carlisle on Vimeo.

PSG meets ARC

2011-09-18T16:21:00.000-07:00

Collaborations anyone? See see. Here here.

www.patrickseangibson.com

Click on the little dude on the right.... he looks like this.

Days Upon Days

2011-09-18T16:01:00.000-07:00

Here are some glimpses of the inside of Proenza Schouler.... because of course all is confidential. So from the show room's floor, the chocolate choices, the handmade bow from Aki (in honor of Comme des Garcons), rooftop inspirations, and the cute elevator. On Broadway Street, where Proenza is located, the elevator says "this car up" one the lobby floor. I had been wanting to take a shot of this, secretly, because I'm silly shy like that, and so one night, Sept 8th, Fashion Night's Out, I shot this. One second later, Lazaro and the gang pop out to go make an appearance at Bloomies. So, in a way, we can say that's a portrait of Lazaro right? Yes, I thought so.

Optic Haze

2011-09-15T20:00:00.000-07:00

The theme of Proenza Schouler's Spring 2012 look was dubbed "optimism" with bright and tropical rose covered glasses, according to Style.com. Though my hours spent at Proenza, and somewhat in the larger mass of New York City have been positive, they have not all been optimistic. But looking to the brighter side.

I was a source of inspiration this week to Jack and Lazaro and Paul (the hair guru who appears to be out of a chimney sweeper movie in the 30's). They asked to take pictures of my hair, which was being "styled" in a sloppy low bun bun, and then proceeded to style the back of the 35 or so girl's hair to be knotted and in a low sloppy bun like mine. Though Elvis' hair style crept in, I was their hair inspiration! And its documented.... do read here on Into the Gloss.com.

It was something to observe the show from the outside, still acknowledging some of the ridiculous elements, but appreciating and being awed by the complete vision of the thing and original intent of hard working minds.

I was at a loss of what to do for a moment, since the chatter of the photographers had settled down. I went outside, attempted a phone call, listened to some beloved voicemails (a default in a moment like that) and got up from the stairs I was posted on, to walk back inside the warehouse and see Grace Coddington of Vogue standing there in the shadows talking to someone (the ankles on the left in the bottom image). I waited, then kindly touching her upper arm, was blunt enough to say that I appreciated who she was, and admired her. Its true. But I think it caught her off guard.

We Love Spots!

2011-08-26T15:25:00.000-07:00

In-between my ramp-aids of the tyranny of the human race I found time to make a few wears. The trusting brave souls of Alexei and Marie found it in them to sell my makes. We do fall in the summer and summer in the fall.

Home Escape Video

2011-08-26T15:08:00.000-07:00

Wilfred Galila is a genius of a man. You'll find out in a few minutes if you share a cup of coffee with him. But for those who don't have that luxury, here is some of his handy work. This is my first look book video I've ever made/collaborated on. Enjoy the soft tones, as I promise you that the next video will not be so fluffy.

HOME ESCAPE [autumn/winter 2010] from Autie Carlisle on Vimeo.

Geometric Nightmare Autumn/Winter Knitwear 2011

2011-06-08T16:46:00.000-07:00

Flocks and Herds

2011-04-09T22:41:00.000-07:00

The true artist fashion designers have something to say to or about society with their collections. One that comes to mind was Alexander McQueen's big lipped- hunk of trash fall collection. What was beautiful was his comment on what beauty is, what the environment is up to, as well as a peep hole into his sorrow. A designer who does well is one who can read that society and project that- because it makes sense to the people.
I had watched a documentary that is soon to be in film festivals about a very traditional painter named Frank Mason. He spoke about how centuries ago, or not even that, painters would train and train- working on anatomy, color, technique etc, and then after years of that, they earned the right to say something to society in their work.
Right now in my art, I am reflecting and experimenting with collections that I just realized carry my current state of mind. Home Escape, and then Geometric Nightmare. My goal, by the time I want to open up my own Autie line, is to figure out what society will need to hear.

Constituent Parts

2011-03-22T15:38:00.001-07:00

Its arriving!

Falcor

2011-03-22T15:36:00.000-07:00

Recently, by the suggestion of my talented architect friend, I got hired to knit a giant throw for a client in Berkley. It was a challenge, but fun of course. This wool couch throw is 10' by 5' and 11 lbs of coziness. Named Falcor from the Neverending story...

Recently, by the aid of my talented architect friend, I got hired to knit a giant throw for a client in Berkley. It was a challenge, but fun of course. This wool couch throw is 10' by 5' and 11 lbs of coziness. Named Falcor from the Neverending story...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37639148@N00/5547576226/in/set-72157626193787035/

Arts of Fashion Foundation did 2010 a Deed

2010-12-08T11:02:00.000-08:00

With a class from my almost alumni school, me and my bestie helped produce a fashion show put on annually by the non-profit SF based Arts of Fashion Foundation.
One of the perks of the hours spent working on the choreography of this show- was a formal cocktail party (ah! what to wear?!) in the hills of glamor and ivy. This was put on by Richard Kleine (co-founder of Surface Magazine but now the entrepreneur behind Dot429) for the Arts of Fashion Foundation.
The hightlights were Richard Kleine telling me what he liked about my purple dress (what? white shoes? no...), making me drink another martini (dry), and telling my 10 year future. He told me one of two things (and yes, this is going down in the records); one would be me teaching at Parsons in NY (no, i made him stop there, never going to happen), or two, designing my own line in NY at the level of Jeremy Scott (I'd take that over the two, but NY?).

I was able to talk to Matthew Ames- his brain was royally picked by yours truly. He has inspired me to try for competitions such as Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award.

Also there was Mathieu Blazy (Raf Simon's assistant?), David Duby (always so cozy and smiley) who works with Anthony Vaccarello. The most influential and helpful woman present was Laurence Teillet (creative partner with Aurore Thibout) who re-affirmed my desire to attend Central Saint Martin's school of Design in London just one more time.. deeper and deeper.
She also enthralled me with her story about how she got a job working for Martin Margiela. She went there after she had some experience and education under her belt for a job. They forgot about her the first time- and she waited for an hour. Then she came back, they told her to to create a collection in a month (of about 20 looks), make it all, and find all the production/manufacturing in Paris. Go! She did, and came back, presented it, talked to this man for an hour (who she later realized was Martin) and got hired. So there's my future- I think I'm busy now? ha!

Then yesterday I had the privilege to be part of a video chat with Manish Arora. Who was in India (since he's an Indian Couture designer who shows in Paris)... go figure. It was the same Skype or any sort that I've used with my Chicago brother in law... so he was brought down in to reality, but still held at this lofty point. Almost comical though as he sat there in what looked like a kitchen with a cigarette in one hand and a glass of whiskey in the other. His voice, almost crass with its husky growl- he had such an appeal as someone glowing with vibrance (just look at his color use!).

Here is what I learned from dear ol' Manish.
As a designer- you need an honest point of view- the industry will see that (the French will).
Stick to where you came from- don't try to be what you are not. Utilize what your culture offers. Don't be ethnic or heritage, but rather contemporary and modern. No one else can be you, and if you copy- it will never be as good as the person who originally did it (as I've been learning with my guitar cover songs).
Try for awards as well- say from the Center for Fashion Enterprise (funding!)
He gets up everyday and tells himself that life is beautiful. Sometimes he doesn't always feel it, and has to pretend that life is beautiful, but he has to. It is his job to see life as beautiful. People have to be dressed at some point- and fashion is a way of exciting people. People wake up naked, or get naked at some point, what are they going to put on?
He keeps his inspirations simple- like jungle or circus- but its his perception that is different. He wants it to be understood by everyone, 3 years old to 60. Though that's not the range that will buy it, he wants all to appreciate it.
I asked him what the hardest part of the balance of design is; he said its the same every season, making his collection wanted by each market- the Japanese, the French, and the American (and Indian I suppose).

He would be a colorful man to work with.... ah thank you dear Manish. You tops the highlight chart yesterday.

Though there were other special moments. Since this is a special fashion diary- not just facts, but rather Autie's perception on her fashion events, I'll tell you those stories, not the factual ones.

Rachel and I lined up the backroom with all the Z-racks, ready for our 30 models to change, we had worked on this for days, for hours, so had others. It is so true that 95% is planning, and 5% is the actual doing (just like you said Mr. Wilfred). We had it organized to the best of our abilities, not sitting down for hours, and not taking more than a second to keep our mouths closed (for questions hounded us galore!). We had things lined up- the first looks on the models, just before they exited with the cue.... show was to start in 5 minutes, possibly 10, and Rachel looks around with a frantic brow- "I need chocolate". Thanks to Itamar, I had some to give. I love being that to Rachel: good tip if you work with her, carry dark chocolate!

Then, there is this moment, i'm sure in all fashion shows, of utter magic. The first looks of models go out, but then each model has 2-4 looks, so there are fast changes that have to happen in a matter or seconds. Dressers are lined up with the 2nd look garments in hand. As the list of giants exit the room to go on the runway, there is this loud chaos to utter silent. Eerie. Just this moment of waiting for that first model to come running in, hopping on one heel and tearing the jacket off her shoulders. Then boom! Chaos hits again.

It feels like a giant wave, right before the wave hits, its growing and your in the water, looking up and there is this silence right before the powerful wave crashes. That's the feeling. The feeling right as your peak over a steep hill before the speed kicks in. While you are in the air of a jump. That's an experience.

The other moment was this model who had to get into these nightmare of tights (they were full length fringe going horizontal, so when she put her foot in, it got caught on hundreds of strings). She had to get her leg in them of course, so we had dressers assigned to help her. But that wasn't enough. So there was this point when I looked over and Paige (the model) was sitting in a chair in the middle of the room with her platinum blonde hair in an outfit completely white. Surrounding her, as a alter of sorts, were at least 8 other individuals all covered in only black attire (for the production team was all in black), kneeling and working. That was a picture.

I didn't get to see but one second of this show of 84 looks (plus two other mini 20 piece shows sandwiching it). The moment I did see was right when Paige made it in the tights- which I wasn't sure she was going to) I stuck my head out the side door and saw her walking down the runway- as if all was smooth and angelic. Who would of known? We had done it. We had pulled the wool over everyone's eyes.

Home Escape Preview

2010-11-20T00:40:00.000-08:00

Photoshoot of women's rtw autumn/winter 2010 line called Home Escape. Pretty much the idea of if you just got up to leave and took home with you. Canada Choate (model) and Brian Ortega (photographer) are geniuses. More to come on my website soon...

Rod & Reel Preview

2010-11-20T00:15:00.001-08:00

Here is a sneak peak of a few shots from my recent photoshoot with Peggy Friar (model) and Lydia Chen (photographer) before it goes up on my website soon.

Geometric Nightmare on Kickstarter

2010-11-19T00:17:00.000-08:00

Tonight I launched my women's knitwear fundraiser at Kickstarer.com, an amazing platform website to help creative souls to raise finances for their projects. Mine is for my knitwear collection called Geometric Nightmare for autumn/winter 2011 to be debuted at Constituent Parts: a San Francisco local fashion show by myself and three other fabulous young fashion designers.

I will be knitting with this black neoprene/rubber extracted tubing as well as other chunky wool yarn. This of course adds up so anything you can contribute to the cause helps! Its both feet in for me jumping!

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/autie/autie-geometric-nightmare-knitwear-collection-0

Geometric Nightmare Kickstarter Poem from Autie Carlisle on Vimeo.

Reitterating My Thoughts

2010-11-02T18:56:00.000-07:00

Highlights from a James Victore (graphic designer) from Behance.com.

"My third students [at SVA] aren’t allowed to use computers. It really frustrates them because they don’t know how to use their hands. But I say listen, I know how much time it takes to boot up a computer, and open InDesign, and you get a box, and you type a letter in it. And you make it this big. Then you make it this big. Then you make it this big. Then you make it this big. Then you move it over here. Then you make it red. Then you make it this big. And it’s like: You’re not designing! You’re organizing. That’s easy. Worry about that later.

And this is stuff I learned from heroes. It’s the work you do before you ever put pen to paper. That’s the important part.

Is there anything else you tell your students?
Being conscious of your habits is one – and creating good habits. Being conscious of your peers, the people you’re around. You know, there are some people in your life who are like zombies [Victore raises his arms straight out, speaks in monotone] “Be like us…” and they are some people who are good for you. So you have to look around every once in a while and take stock. You might even be married to a zombie!"

http://jamesvictore.com/

Beautiful People on Film

2010-10-11T20:28:00.000-07:00

Research on not only why this short feel makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside (and also like puking at Yale yuppies) and how fashion lines are making videos part of their look books...

Gant Rugger Fall/Winter 2011

Neophyte to Novice

2010-10-06T23:38:00.000-07:00

Oh and what did today hold for me in its little firm hands? Let me share... how about in alphabetical form today (for Wednesday is an alphabetical day, Tuesdays are numerical, duh)

a. Fashion is sometimes like a little character all in itself. It is serious, but also needs to be protected. It's like a lion child. Very strong and powerful, but you have to handle it with care and intention.
b. Society should not be served. We should serve it, like my mother served us children, but not like a god. Don't serve it in a blind way, but only a caring way with the best of aims.
c. In the fashion industry, there is never one "the best" there are many at the same time. This applies to many disciplines- don't get jealous. And don't always try to be the best for you may miss those to collaborate and be inspired from.
d. If you are always waiting for something it will never happen.
e. Provide quality- others will help if they want.
f. Just because you pay someone for a job doesn't mean they are going to do a better job than someone who is just willing to do it.
g. Tavi's goals for the school year should be mine: wear outfits that confuse the people I am surrounded with every day, and challenge beauty ideals.
h. Kathleen Hanna said it best- "Why is it so subversive to be beautiful in the traditional sense? I think it's much more subversive to create your own form of beauty and to set your own standards"

There you have it. It was an stimulating day in the life of Autie.
oh, and p.s. i sleep to much! I wonder what I'm thinking half the time.

Trips of the Neophyte

2010-10-05T21:56:00.001-07:00

Lessons from last night.
1. Don't buy a return plane ticket... that means you are going on vacation. (maybe more relevant to me than those with establishment and comfort).
2. Some people only raise their left eyebrow (and that might be because of great character and charisma, or a cheek stroke...) check first!
3. Talk to the owner of 1/8th of Chili when he is in a room. Don't hesitate, but if so; enjoy the other electrifying creatures present... maybe you don't know who they are or what they are capable of.
4. Life is like riding a rabbit being pulled out of a magic top hat. And with that there are two types of people: those who like to be holding onto the hairs down by the pink warm body where its unbearably safer, and then those who climb up to the top of the hairs and hold on for the mutually terrifying and glorious ride (yes I'm exhaustively biased).
5. Don't talk on Oprah or the Tonight Show if that is not your audience. Be selective who's eyes you want on you.
6. Use your strange hair as a filter, based on people's reactions, you can then know who to talk to.
7. Sometimes people don't try to be trendy to be trendy. Rather they discover a thing and then others take it away from them; hence they move to the next.
8. There is a special outfit for every day of your life... you just have to find it.
9. I would rather have people dress for art and look crazy then never try. Its a mindset of being active in how you dress which is more beckoning than not caring and not pursuing, even if the end result is hideous. Maybe you'll hit the nail one time out of 365.
10. Be your age (whether that's 14 or 40, or 70) in whatever way that is.
11. Fashion really is the history of artistic wear- now in the industry it is a "fashionable" who's who game but that's only because people with usually good taste say what's hot. And usually it is based on a history of aesthetic taste. So we should play but not limit ourselves to designer's commentaries alone.
12. Dress how you dress, and if its not fashionable in your town (if fitting in is a goal of yours), find one where you feel comfortable, because on other sides of the world it is vastly diverse.
13. There is only one kind of jump. Jumping off a cliff half-heartedly never works well. Have you ever seen someone who jumps then grabs onto all the vines and branches as they fall? I'd rather only have one leg and jump all in with that then two split in directions.
14. Moths serve no good purpose.
15. When was the last time a comfort zone blew your mind?
16. Always check yourself and your intentions, for I do not want to be a hypocrite with bad intentions.
17. You can't be afraid to live and afraid to die. Neither is best, but at least just pick one.

2010-09-19T21:13:00.000-07:00

Artists of my month.

Daniel Adam Turner
http://www.danieladamturner.com/works.html

Mark Baugh-Sasaki
http://www.markbaugh-sasaki.com/

Textile Graphiti

2010-08-30T21:14:00.000-07:00

So here we have screen printing on cotton for my fresh friend Patrick Sean Gibson (www.patrickseangibsn.com), weaving on the loom, and a modern twist on shabori technique with cotton and marbles.

Recent textile experiments

Preview of Dual Transformation

2010-08-12T15:58:00.000-07:00

AI Fashion Show- 2010 Inside View

2010-06-22T23:14:00.000-07:00

Most of the photos above are by John Agcaolli and I appreciated the candid views that not a grand amount of people got to experience.

7x7 Magazine
http://www.7x7.com/blogs/glamwatch/art-institute-fashion-show-refined-rock-n-roll

Style Wylde Blog
http://www.stylewylde.com/fashion/2010/6/20/art-institute-students-thrill-audience-with-united-streets-o.html

SF Indie Fashion Article (funny recap of transforming dress)
http://sfindiefashion.com/2010/06/21/runway-recap-art-institute-fashion-show/#more-5638

Photos
http://www.verdictphotography-mypics.com/Other/UNITED-STREETS-OF-FASHION/12636865_KWt2L#908061900_yZwpp

Trendy

2010-06-06T18:56:00.001-07:00

Trends have never been something I liked. I figured, why follow them as a designer, we invent things, not just follow things. Tom Ford always says that designers make the trends. My teachers always say they do, not young designers like me. I keep my eye on trends, but I've always been the type of designer who didn't know all the hot chic new and classic designers life stories or what's new with them, but rather I just wanted to touch fabric and make things out of it. Why read when I could create?
However, I've shifted that, or am trying to, to learn more and expand the depth and greatness of my designs. I enjoy reading WGSN and WWD (when I had the subscription) but its more about new textiles and the stories behind the newest Spring/Fall collections.
Yet as of late, I've realized the sting of being behind the trends. Its hard as a student designer because we obviously are still learning technique and trying to discover our own style, all while having to sew and cut all our own creations. By the time we finish a project, an established designer has made a whole 40 look collection.
This Fall/Winter line that I've been making (a 10 look collection) has taken me quite some time, and has developed over a while, and I was quite happy and proud of it, until late. Sometimes I can't tell if that's just because I look at the things too long, and am hence sick of it. If they were never good in the first place. Or if I'm just crazy. I honestly don't know. My husband is always saying how it upsets him that I don't like my stuff after I've spent hours on it.
But that is sort of fashion isn't it? Its here and then gone. I do that with the clothes I buy. I like them and then don't later.
Anyways, back to trends- I have discovered a few that will be in my line. Those little fur tails that kids hang on their key chains or belts. Exposed zippers- as told by my director, she's sick of that trend, and glad its pretty much dead. Its the first time I've ever used exposed zips. Last season alot of New York women were wearing sheer tops that show the bra beneath. Its now made its way to California, but is dead in NY. I want to be on the trends- which is the first that I've ever felt that way. Because otherwise I feel silly and am not taken serious by people who know what's up. That is partly why I want to live in NY or Europe, because it always takes longer to get to CA.
We'll see!

Rainbow Veins

2010-04-15T19:21:00.001-07:00

Here is my life right now.
This is either what I need or what I have.
Oh
but there is that
in the middle of shadows.

Taste Test

2010-02-15T20:10:00.000-08:00

This is the tour of a dress. Here's these people's taste on the same dress.

Russian/Turkish Print

2010-01-28T21:01:00.000-08:00

Surface Design class- first pattern. We had to design a pattern and put it in repeat- this is a half drop. All hand drawn and painted. After research- I discovered that Turkish prints in history contain alot of geometric squares, rectangles, and triangles (from the Islam culture- what image is not seductive? Squares! Still makes some beautiful designs to me though) which influenced Russian culture. The Russian textiles, and due to the lack of Islam, contained many more florals. So here is a combo of the two- with Russian culture dominating. Coordinate to come soon and another set of colorways!

Knitwear Dress Line

2010-01-26T10:27:00.000-08:00

Last night I started drawing these 6 sketches- then I got a migraine. I apologize for the crazy web of brain hair. It was the horrible storm that was happening in my head. Enjoy the watercolor and charcoal.

Fall Quarter 2009

2009-12-27T08:58:00.000-08:00

Not much time has been dedicated to this little personal progress blog since the beginning of my last quarter- showing in progress mood boards and illustrations. Aside from that, and including that, this was my hardest quarter by far. I have never worked so hard, and accomplished less. Less by the requirements of what had to get done. I know there are many people who work harder, and students who stay up later, but it was pushing it for me, and I still feel like i'm recovering from those last two weeks of finals. Thankfully I do have a break, one in which I am trying to complete sewing projects, all the while trying not to burn myself out on it again because soon I'll have to dive right back in. Its a hard balance when I find my self unconsciously expecting to get the same amount done in turn over rate. Well I guess not unconsciously.
I have felt a little more incompetent lately in the fashion industry. Maybe because I wasn't able to finish what I set out to do in a few classes, but maybe its because I know more about the industry and learning what helps a designer last or not and its hard. I knew it was hard, but its hard. Anyways, I don't have any amazing photos of what I've been doing, but I'll upload a few of what I do have.
We'll recap- more so, or defiantly so for my benefit so I can remember clearer when I look back at my quarters as they all blend together in one mess of a memory.
Rachel Poulos and I collaborated (something we've wanted to do for a while, and hopefully will again soon) on an outfit (but done twice) for our school's quarterly fashion show. This years theme was androgyny- expanding on the idea of how men borrow from women's fashion, and how women borrow from mens. We created an outfit that both a woman or man could wear, accessorize different, and being the different sexes, make it look completely different. Since the cougars were running wild from Craig's list (the models), Rachel braved it up and modeled herself, and we brought in our own world famous model- August Kreowski from San Luis Obispo. The show was down by the Embarcedero in the middle of the day, and in the middle of the cold, (well cold for San Francisco) and was quite ghetto (not on attack to any of the individuals who put it on, some very neat people). We had the best time possible, with my goofy models cracking me up.
I had a Production Systems class with Bo Breda. I worked on a swimwear line, and putting together spec packs (and trying to perfect my oak tag cutting). I enjoyed doing that, and would like to make more, though they are challenging. I always wondered why people don't my one pieces as often as I'd like, but it is hard to fit the length of people's torsos. Now I know that.
Couture kicked my butt, I made a gown designed for Tatiana Sorokko, a local Russian socialite. It was part of a larger collection that I'm working on (and worked on for Concept and Line class) which was originally going to be an all white line. I am having two real women model for me, so I am making the outfits to fit them. The dress I was referring to is full length with a quilted skirt that is divided into 9 panels, with a stiff buckram backing that creates a very cylinder shape. It is all white on white quilting done by machine, and hand stuffed. The bodice is a strapless silhouette but possibly with straps (to be announced) made out of brown raw silk with an asymmetrical peplum. I am working on covering it with buttons currently which will balance the very "dry" look that the textiles create. I wanted to illustrate a homey russian feel, with the quilted (and the patterns are taken from old Russian art) and buttons it is conveying that quite well, but elegantly. Its going to be a heavy dress.... you'll see.
For Concept and Line, as mentioned, I worked on my line which I named Siberian Homestead. You saw a little of this before, but its not done. Lots of illustrations lets just say, and merchandising. And apparently I think differently than anyone else as my teacher says, that's another conversation though...
Those are the main classes, I took Computer Design which I learned more about printing (BPS, they are nice, but don't need to lecture me) and used illustrations and croquis from this class in the others. I still like hand illustrations. Maybe a blend.... i might try coloring by hand but printing a computer croquis. I also took Belief Systems which was frustrating, but later I realized that it was neat to sit and listen to Bible stories and the truth that was being said. Jesus is the man no matter what.
So that was my quarter- check out my flickr (www.flickr.com/photos/autiec), I uploaded the fashion show pics and a photographer named Lydia Chen who borrowed some clothes of mine for a photo shoot.

Its funny, I now find myself thinking or dividing my life up in quarters- I wonder if that's how all those business men think.

Croquis # 1

2009-10-29T11:48:00.000-07:00

First photoshop Croquis, next week I'll color the garment!

Siberian Homestead

2009-10-20T08:17:00.000-07:00

Women's ready-to-wear, autumn/winter, 2011: Mood and trend boards

Omo Tribe

2009-10-03T23:34:00.000-07:00

My director at school shared this with me, its the Omo people/tribe. They make beautiful art with the natural pigments of the earth, their faces, and flowers. Its amazing and I enjoyed looking at these photos put together in this you tube video (yeah to the internet to help us experiance other cultures). By the time I'm half way into this video I start to feel rather boring. Why don't we all do this? It must be refreshing.

Shadowlands Dress

2009-09-24T14:36:00.000-07:00

I finally finished the dress! I believe it is the most complicated and glamorous thing that I've ever made (but not for long!). Briefly- the concept is the following-
When my friend's grandfather died, she asked her mum what she thought heaven was going to be like, her response was, "I think it will be like waking up from a sad dream." I believe this world, as great as it is, is only a shadow of the goodness to come. I chose to depict this with a plain by fabric (that is not 100% opaque) which with the help of a drawstring and armholes hidden in the black skirt's pleats, it transforms into this red full length dress. I found this fabric at a vintage store in San Francisco. It was an old curtain from the 1970's that used to be in a German hotel. I loved the texture, color, and pattern in it. I wanted that to represent that in heaven, all the amazing things here will be magnified. The colors, textures, feelings, details, foods, out bodies, everything. To put it like C.S. Lewis would, we are longing for another country.

Anyways, I apologize for the images, I know they are not the best- but down the road I'll have it photographed up to par and then we can all appreciate it greater! Thanks for looking.

Webstie

2009-09-12T22:30:00.000-07:00

Drum roll please....

my website is finished!

Please check out Patrick Sean Gibson 's hard and talented work!

www.autieautie.com

Thanks!

Logo

2009-07-27T11:52:00.001-07:00

I now have a logo- see below.
Today- was a break through. Its taken me months, time consulting others, time downloading fonts, time having my mum try to design it, time scribbling, scribbling in my bed, scribbling on the tablet on photoshop--- then I call my dad, and this is so like God to do this, I call him on my break at school after a hundred plus scribbles (i have explored every way to write an "A") just to say hi, say hi, tell him what i'm up to, and he decides to pray that God will help me with my logo- cuz God cares right too? Yes. He did, two tries later it poped out!

For SALE

2009-07-16T23:49:00.001-07:00

Most of the previously seen Nigeria women's line as well as the Summer Eskimo girl's line is up for sale at Etsy.com. My shop's site is www.autiecarlisle.etsy.com. Some are also for sale at Rag Co-op's online store at www.ragsf.com under the women's shop and the children's shop. The shoes featured in the runway show as well as this photoshoot are up for grabs as well! Contact me if interested in anything.

Nigeria with Cecilia, Ed, Robin, and Valerie

2009-07-16T22:16:00.000-07:00

Cecilia Austin (Photographer), Edward Cabalit (2nd photographer), Valerie Brower (other model), and Robin Dale (Hair and Makeup Artist), shot in Alemeda June 27, 2009

Summer Eskimo

2009-07-05T22:44:00.000-07:00

Noelle McGee, the now famous 6 year old girl from Mount Shasta helped me out with my first line of children wear. The line was inspired by the oxymoron idea of what an Eskimo stuck in the summer would wear. Fur, though controversial, was a challenge yet to be embarked on by myself so I attempted this line to learn how to sew fur, make clothes for a little girl body, and figure out what defines Autie style.

In the pictures I observed of Eskimos I saw alot of these ribbon type trims on each Eskimo's outfit. They all were black and white in a sort of positive and negative form, but all were different. I believe it indicated which tribe they were with, or what family they were in. I included hand pieced mini-jig-saw puzzle black and white trim on a few of the garments. Enjoy!

Art Institute Fashion Show- Nigeria Power Struggle Line

2009-07-01T10:30:00.000-07:00

June 20th was the climax of my Spring 2009 quarter as well as a load of purchasing tickets and arranging cell phone numbers for the Metamorphosis Fashion Show that my school put on. Over all- the show went well. It was a day of running back and forth dealing with family, food, and all my creations until oh yeah, "You have to get dressed Autie!" but all I wanted to do was hang out with my guests that came to watch.

I went to the big fashion show my school put on last year, but it was different then this year. It was neat to be in a row of designers who we had all watch their pieces form and mature almost like little people or something.

Mine was in scene 8- Tim helped me pick out a song by a Swedish band called Familijen which my brother in law and his family is most likely sick of due to this sweet video he put together of the event (which is amazing).

Anyways, enough of that- here are some images of my five looks. After the show my school gave out 4 scholarships for different awards and I won $1000 for best construction. Here is a link to an article the San Francisco Chronicle put out about the show.

thread l bare

2009-06-23T00:46:00.000-07:00

The Lab art gallery located in the Mission district of San Francisco held an annual fund raising runway-strip tease- live auction -fashion show the other day. I heard about it from my work (Nomads) and both the store and I donated an outfit.

I wanted something that was simple yet detailed, as well as feminine while age and size friendly. Details are my forte and so I hand crafted a lattice style back, as well as a front bib of pleats. The tag placement as well as buttons have contrasting yellow stitching while the dress is fully lined with a turquoise fabric. The outside shell fabric is a cotton voile that was hand dyed (for my bridesmaids dresses) with a silk dye and gutta resist then after this dress was constructed, dyed in a bath of tea water to give it a slight peach-antique color. All this topped off with french seams and a braided belt! I hope whoever bought it, dear #30 auction ticket, that you enjoy it well!

Jan Taminiau

2009-05-18T23:08:00.000-07:00

Have you ever heard of Jan Taminiau? A few years back I stumbled upon his designs in Surface magazine, then recently in Soma's March 2009 issue (volume 23.2) pages 54-57.

Jan was born in Goirle, in the Netherlands on September 14, 1975. His family contained an array of interior designers, antique dealers, and decorators. He later went to school at the Academy of Art in Arnhem and graduated in 2001 then pursued his masters degree at the Fashion Institute in Arnhem starting in 2003.

After that Jan trained with various artists such as Oliver Theyskens (designer of Nina Ricci), Oscar Suleyman (see image below), and Hubert Barrere in Paris (the corsetiere of Dior, YSL, and Madonna).

As Jan ventured to Paris with his own name this time he unveiled his own line called "Unfolded" which featured 2D garments being made into 3D garments. What I mean is when the dress is taken off the model and straightened out flat on the floor they create perfect circles or rectangles.

Since then Jan, more likely referred to as JANTAMINIAU (all one word), has played with many more unique and mind puzzling ideas.

Not only that, but the way he chooses to present his creations is a creation in itself. His "Evolution" line comes with a video on his website, somewhat of a drug-trip kaleidoscope type of dream video of two models exchanging clothing. He's creative down to the music on the runways and the shoes they wear (miniature dresses for the shoes, or hey, 10" heels anyone?) to the 3D 360 degrees capturing video for "Check, Check, Mate!" encompassing the masterpieces of plaid and metallic media (thank you Style Nomad for helping me with some images).

Lets get specific about what he's done- even though he mainly covers that on the website. Here is one of his first collections that went public in the press. This was his Spring/Summer 2007 line called "Radical Chic." Many of the garments transformed from one type of a dress or outfit to another with the letting down of a skirt for example.

"Follies" was the line to follow which was another playful twist off of this transformation of a single garment (more is shown on his website).

His latest work not only features the couture ("Check, Check, Mate!") but also a ready-to-wear line entitled "Passe Partout RTW" SS 2009. In the runway show of this line Jan had selected models glide down the catwalk with a hoop of balloons bouncing around them. This was reflected in the photo shoots as well.

So now you know about his designs, lets get a taste of Jan's lingo-

Jan Says Hi - Jan Taminiau from Team Peter Stigter on Vimeo.

In the midst of Jan Taminiau's ever changing designs he holds tried and true to the concepts that make him him. He treasures the nostalgia of fabric, techniques, and craftsmanship. He explains that all he does is translate the daily happenings into his own context. Though this is spoken differently in each line, he says "the basis is dogmatic, the process is organic." Lets watch Jan as he quests for the prefect blend of form and aesthetics.

Lesson in Designing

2009-04-06T11:06:00.000-07:00

Its funny (sarcasm), my school, though I am majoring in Fashion Design, doesn't really teach one how to be a good designer. They teach us how to sew, patternmake, illustrate, and the list goes on... yet what makes a good designer?

I have had opportunities to learn from some amazing designers since I have moved to San Francisco, and I know I will learn from more. Last night I was realizing that everything that I am inspired by, and many of the things that other designers are influenced by, my God created. What better designer to learn from then that who created all textures?

Technical Drawing

2009-03-26T09:19:00.000-07:00

This morning I finished up my Technical Drawing class, a class with one of my new favorite teachers. Here's a snap shot of what I learned.

Sitara Trade Show

2009-02-22T22:17:00.000-08:00

Near the first part of February I worked a few days at the Moscone Center (as shown) in San Francisco at the San Francisco International Gift Fair for the amazing company Sitara SF Inc. scarf company. Sitara is a locally operated company that makes scarves all in India with only natural fibers and often old world techniques of hand dying or weaving.

My teacher, Geetika Gupta, had recently had me entered into her mind (thanks to e-mail) and is at that point in her career where she's teaching part time at two art schools, has a full time business as well as a husband and social life to keep and doesn't want to spend her precious hours at a trade show booth- though that is very vital to her company. So I sat in, with the men's trade show for clothing called Blue in New York under my belt I wasn't too intimated. However I did just jump in there without ever working with or about her company.

I do have to say that I learned alot about how to apply reading body language, how to multi-task better, how to learn quickly the facts needed to know, as well as what a good book is at a trade show (the answer to the latter is "Franny and Zooey"). The first sale I did was the biggest. It was to the Seattle Art Musuem which is one of the best places for her line as Geetika informed me later. The feeling I got after that, and after the following sales was so nice I have to say.

Also, there is something to be noted that was different than my retail job at Nomads, I liked the fact that I was selling to the stores, talking to the store owners or buyers, and it wasn't just beanie or a t-shirt they were buying. They were buying a line, a look, a really nice scarf.

Vision Aquired

2009-02-06T09:37:00.001-08:00

Previously I had mentioned how I was discouraged by my designs and the challenge of creating a complete collection. Well I have taken some time off and approached it in a new and exciting era. So I knocked out two of the dressed that were to supposed to top off my looks. With those two empty seats to fill I designed two dresses with very similar elements to the other three looks. Common occurrences are of course the fabrics, the deep V necks, the velvets (as epaulets or shoulder poofs), and the "collar" pockets and sleeve caps.
Here is some drawings of them in illustrator (was one of my first real Illustrator projects) to get an idea of the looks as well as the image.

Major Conversations

2009-02-06T09:33:00.000-08:00

My school does this event each quarter where one person specializing in each major offered here at Ai presents during the lunch hour. The school provides food and there are other incentives to go besides that. Previously its been the faculty who present, showing previous work, art, history of themselves etc. Since they have run out of teachers to do, they have turned to the students.

Last quarter was the kickoff with Dora who had won a competition and got flown out to NY. This quarter it was me presenting on my internship with Colleen Quen.

I was nervous, mainly because it is one of those things not "for school" and I was the only one to present (unlike classes where you're all feeling the anxiety of presenting) in front of a crowd open to anyone and no limited to anyone.

The audience was very small, and very personal. It was very conversational, and eye to eye. Overall it was a great experience that I enjoyed and was encouraged by.

The Pursuit of Art

2009-01-25T23:10:00.000-08:00

In my admirable quest of creating a collection; one to inspire and look gladly upon I have instead stumbled upon the sad dismay of some sort of defeat. Or I thought so in that moment. I was told by someone very wise, and confirmed by my friend (who is a designer) as well as myself. It was not a good collection, they looks didn't tie together, in shape, color, or style. I needed and still need to adapt and change it, however that be.

I have been learning and searching on the huge and unavoidable question of how to be a good designer. This inevitably comes with hardships, though I sometimes wish it didn't. Yet it does, and with that discouragement and the challenge to pick up and try again, and again, and again because the best ideas don't always come at first go.

My collection is small. 5 looks, about 10 individual garments. Its too big that I want to have a broad color way, yet narrow enough that I can't develop the colors. Same with silhouettes. If I was doing a line like many others in the industry, there is more room for that. So that is my technical challenge of the day.

I'm learning how to re-fuel. Appropriate in the fact that this is inspired after the energy/power issue which largely has to do with fuel and the running out of. How do I stay stable? How do I get inspired again? We shall see.

The Moon

2009-01-14T10:47:00.000-08:00

Photoshoot by Terri Carlisle featuring the nylon full flared skirt and melton wool jacket by yours truly.

The Sun

2009-01-13T23:08:00.000-08:00

Photoshoot by Terri Carlisle at water tower in Excelsior district in San Francisco featuring knit cowl back tank top and gathered knee length skirt made by me. Also, how could I possibly forget to give credit to my "sun and moon," Tim.

Marin Playground

2009-01-12T19:51:00.001-08:00

This dress was inspired by a Bottega Veneta dress with a 40's reference. Yesterday morning we shot a few pictures in a playground for the record. As you can see, we had fun playing.

Curse of the Black Gold

2009-01-01T23:07:00.000-08:00

On National Geographic I found a series of 5 short (1 minute plus) videos about the oil Nigeria issue. They are educating, inspiring, and sad all that the same time. Check them out if you get a chance, just click below.
Curse of the Black Gold

Latest Challenge

2009-01-01T22:39:00.001-08:00

My latest struggle and challenge in my education of life is on the topic of designing. I realized that no one has ever taught me how to be a designer. That's fine, I don't expect everyone to teach me everything I need to know yet no one really addresses that. I hardly have addressed it, I barely realized I was struggling with it even though I do almost every day.

I see that I strive to balance my spiritual life, the world around me, aesthetics of actual clothes, budget costs, and what works best for the client.

On the budget and aesthetics part, I've been very into stripes as I've displayed previously. Yet I don't have enough money or current fabric to actually use stripe fabric (except a little), so here's the challenge: How do you make stripes without stripes?

Do The Green Thing

2008-12-27T21:13:00.000-08:00

A while ago I embarked on a project with a London based web-site project called "Do The Green Thing." This was built by two minds, one of whom I met named Naresh. He came into Nomads one weekend to shop and one conversation lead to the next and he asked me if I would be willing to make a "two person jumper" for December's theme "human heat." The idea of this is to not make a mini summer in your apartment/house using energy but rather to turn down the heater and either put another layer on or get close to somebody! Hence the playful idea of a two person sweater (jumper is what the English call it as I learned the hard way).

I made this in my studio in the most simple form I could in a warm wooly fabric on our nice wood table (as seen in the photos). That's a lot of W's. After that I sent it away, helped create the steps 1, 2, 3, and there it is! Soon there should be photos of random couples on the streets of London in the "jumper."

Check it out! - www.dothegreenthing.com. Oh, and for enjoyment sake, watch the video entitled "Green Thing Presents Body Shaped- Insulation" under the Human Heat area of the website.

Part 3- Aesthetics; Stripes and Pleats

2008-12-13T23:56:00.000-08:00

Here are some images that I find inspiring (oh this is just the start!) from designers such as Bottega Veneta, Emporio Armani, and Harlan Bel (oh and a 40's Clair McCardell).

Colors may include but are not limited to red, green, orangy-yellow, brown, oily black/brown, white, and turquoise silk dye and gutta resist.

Part 2- Spiritual; I Lack the Words but Want the Power

2008-12-13T23:31:00.000-08:00

As a learning student and fashion designer, I am discovering my process of how I design, how I form a concept, what inspires me, and how to translate that into a line of clothing. I have been influenced by a few things, the overruling one is power. This has to do with the struggle of oil in Nigeria, as well as my spiritual life. Below is a journal entry that I wrote in my sketch book on my recent trip to Chicago.

"Be still and know that I am God" Psalm 46:10

Seems to be a theme lately, sometimes voluntarily, not always as with certain politics. I don't know what to say, and when I do- I fumble, evil iron jaw, whatever that means.

The other day at a church in Elmhurst Illinois the pastor showed a short video on silence. It just fortified what I was feeling- my loss of words, and the desire to hug, or snuggle my creator (maybe that's why I want to recite the "Hug Poem" by Bradly Hathaway at open mike so badly). Sometimes I just want to dance, or stare, or laugh, because it is no doubt that I have sat there and cried in Your hands, Lord.

I have been so frusterated with my relationship, or more-so my stereo-type of You. I don't feel like reading the Bible or praying which in turn makes me yearn for that verse in 1 Corinthians 4:20 that says, "The kingdom of God is not in word, but in power." Ironic context too, in the fact that I've struggled with pride and judgmental thoughts lately.

Over the couch in Chicago Tim and I discussed concepts, inducing the one that I've had previously about a girl with a blindfold over her mouth sitting in a pile of boulders- symbolizing the verse in Luke 19:40 which says, "I tell you, if these [God's people] become silent, the stones will cry out!" Provoking when you realize that a nation has never been judged based on those that don't know Him but rather the beliefs and actions of those who do.

I just read the Rolling Stones article by Kunstler called the Long Emergency discussing how because of oil we have arrived a a huge power crisis in the world. At the end in the last paragraph after pages of nerve-racking predictions it says, "we will not believe that this is happening to us, that 200 years of modernity can be brought to its knees by a world-wide power shortage."

Again, this brings me to hope in the verse that God's kingdom is in power. He who we should be getting on our knees for. I would just love to see the miracles He would provide for this country if we let Him.

Part 1- World; Nigeria and its Power Struggle

2008-12-13T00:11:00.000-08:00

Over the past years there has been an issue of the world's supply of oil. It is believed that we have readed our "oil peak" of the total amount of oil the world has to run on. This exact date of when the peak was reached is debated, but if not in the recent years, in the soon years to come. This means that from that point on, there is only half of the oil in the world left, and this oil is harder to get (due to deep underwater locations, or hostile countries like Nigeria) and not as pure. This is a huge impact on out country of USA as the number one user of oil. We use it obviously not only for transportaion, heating, electricity, producing plastic, etc. etc. Not only will prices increase and desperation but other terros will more than likely break out, as have already started.

In Nigeria there are a few large oil companies such as Shell that drill oil there. Partly due to them and the poor government, the area of Nigeria has become a nasty place to put it simply. People drink from oil water, bath, cook, and live by this filthy water. They have no trash removal, and no waste removal so in turn they use the water as a sewer as well. From this people are dying, and obviously without these necessary things, its clear that they do not have a good health care system, so many are dying due to this.

Militants have (for good reason) been provoked and moved to forming a group called MEND which fight against these oil companies, at times stopping drilling and causing prices to rise over here. (oh that's why...). Many can't get work so in turn steal oil from these mega-companies which is dangerous, and often messy.

That is a brief overview of the situation, read the article posted in Vanity Fair by Sebastian Junger called Blood Oil. Most of these photos are from that article by Michael Kamber.

After research on the topic of Nigeria and the oil power struggle happening there I have been exposed to pictures, and issues concerning this conflict. It has impacted my thinking and my creative thoughts. I'll expand on this more in the future, but as a starting palette this is going to be inspiration for my next line of Spring 2009.

For Sale on Web-Site

2008-12-02T22:12:00.001-08:00

After overcoming some technical difficulties and time management issues- my Fall 2008 collection for sale at RAG Co-op here in San Francisco is now available on their web-site. Feel free to check it out at www.ragsf.com under "shop." I also posted my bio under "designers," don't criticize to hard though, writing isn't always my strong point.

Sex Smells Good

2008-11-29T22:53:00.000-08:00

Over Thanksgiving I had a discussion with my newly attained cousin-in-law about the industry of advertising in the world. He explained to me how there was never a need for advertising like there is today until lately. The only kind of advertising was "hey, there's food here, come get it" to put it roughly.
Ever since the industrial revolution here in the US people started making things for other people which didn't really "need" them. These creators would sit there and think, "how can we get people to buy this?" oh and we know they still do that. Hence, the need for advertising, the education of telling the public (even without words) that we are incomplete and and judged based on our material possessions, talents, and looks.
I must say, some advertising s good, and quite amazing, some of it I really enjoy as companies compete for my attention. Maybe in the future I'll feature some of my favorite ads, but for now I need to call to attention a very debased and disgusting challenge in the perfume industry of advertising.

When you think about it, there are many challenges in this; how do you sell something on a piece of glossy paper that you can't eat, touch, or smell? Pictures of tasty food, pictures of a sunny location for travelers, that has been done. But perfume- now that's a tricky one. What is the image one wants to convey? How can the company get people to want this, to "need" this scent, and how will is significantly improve their lifestyle if they buy this necessity? How can this be said in less than 1 second?

Yes, I am aware of all these needs to fill to make a living in the perfume industry of building an image, but I challenge those in the advertising industry to not stoop and be creative. Is a nice smell only revolved around sex? Is it directly associated is soft skin and washboard abs? Please, entertain my scenes better, and note to all those rockstars and actors (that includes you Usher, Britney, J.Lo, and Jennifer Aniston) out there, you don't need your own smell and if you do, try something dangerously creative for us please.

Interview with Colleen Quen

2008-11-27T10:39:00.001-08:00

Interview with Colleen Quen

November 24, 2008

By Autie Carlisle

Background on Colleen Quen: Grew up in Alameda county and graduated with an AA at FIDM here in San Francisco in 1986, had a 10 year career with Wilkes Sports, Eileen West, the Gap, Jane Tise/Karen Alexander, and Joan Walters. Later she studied couture with Simmone Sethna School of French Couture graduating with a certificate in French Couture in 1996 and officially starting her couture business in 2000. She lives at her atelier with her industrial designer husband Rick Lee.

1) Q: What is your motivating factor?
A: One aspect is helping people with my artwork. Each line created on a pattern, and each piece I make is almost like a healing process. It helps each person that wears it as we put our energy and good intentions into it as it is made just for them. The other aspect is I want to inspire people, that is why I like to put my work in museums. We as designers are visionaries; we are here to inspire people.

2) Q: Was that your motivation when you were younger and dreamed of being a fashion designer?
A: I really loved fabrics as a young girl, I love textiles. I have always loved the arts, doing ceramics, sculpture, painting, and so on. The sculptural aspect of clothing, the forms, all that goes into it. Plus I’ve always loved giving gifts, and I suppose by doing this it’s just a level up of giving gifts sometimes.

3) Q: What is the hardest lesson that you’ve had to learn in your career?
A: Believing in your self. There are so many people who are judging you and want to share their opinions, and not everyone likes what you are doing but you have to be strong. Don’t let anyone take your empowerment, what you create is so empowering. We are leaders, visionaries, remember that!

4) Q: Why did you choose to have your couture business here in San Francisco?
A: This is where my roots are. Everyone else said I had to go to New York, or Los Angeles, but I liked it here. I wasn’t trying to be a rebel, but I didn’t see why I couldn’t do my couture business here.

5) Q: How have you been compensating for the economic downfall?
A: Things like sample sales which I did last Wednesday to sell some of my stock that is just money sitting there. I’ve been marketing my self a lot, mainly in global networks such as Beijing and Paris, and of course doing other little projects. It’s almost a fun challenge finding an opportunity out of a difficult situation like this. Nothing is ever comfortable, especially in the fashion industry. There are always “fire emergencies” and we are constantly solving problems if the first option doesn’t work try the second plan, then the third. Don’t let it get you down, and never give up.

6) Q: What are your future growth plans?
A: China, Beijing, I’m working on doing costumes for a film there. As well as moving my business to that market. I feel that I’ve exhausted my network here and need to expand and I believe that is the place. Paris as well for next year, more branding myself while I’m there and hopefully I’ll get invited back.
7) Q: What is the most important thing you could tell an aspiring fashion designer?
A: Fashion design isn’t all glamorous. People seem to have this idea that it is, that we’re always going to fashion shows, and things like that which really only consist a tiny bit of the time. I would tell them about the everyday life, that it’s not like that always, there are these little tedious things you have to do every day. You have to get the order out, you have to take care of the client, and you have to balance being a business person and an artist at the same time. Something that no one ever told me, I don’t think people know this, but you can cater to your own business; find what path you want, things that you need and make it that. I wanted a life balance with my business, I want time to meditate, cook, be with my husband, to be able to look refreshed, be refreshed. You find what you need which is original to you as a designer and then you make your thumbprint; everyone is different and needs different things.

Operation Michael

2008-10-31T21:09:00.001-07:00

Today while I was at work at Nomads, one third of the fashion line Operations came into the store. Since there are three designers, one of them named Michael happened to be in the area. He had a flight back to NY this evening but he stopped by to say hi to my boss, Keyvan.
I was privileged to meet him and his kind personality. We talked alot about the Fall 2008 line that is in our store currently. I learned about the hunting jacket we have, the carpender's shirt, the sniper's sweater and a few more. very interesting. I believe it makes you feel cooler when you wear it, despite the fact that I'm a girl and I haven't tried any on.

Keyvan was looking out for me and told Michael that he should send me over there to intern with Operations, after Nomad's is done with me of course. I thought that was neat, and sounds very possible.

YBCALive!

2008-10-13T22:40:00.000-07:00

Last Saturday was the Yuerba Bueana Center of the Arts Live! festival and fashion show. It started at 12pm there at 3rd and Mission and carried on until after 7. Clustered around were other vendors from jewelery, hats, bags, clothes, and more of the like. It was a dangerous place for us consumers!

After that there was an hour long presentation by four prominent business women which happened while the models were getting hair and makup done as well as all us dressers slash designers were planning and waiting anxiously for the fashion show.

The show started a few minutes after 6pm on a black runway built above the hardwood floor. The show was kicked off by selected designers from RAG Co-op, then continued on by a few other local designers.

I had two looks worn by models Lori and Robin. Lori wore my gray pebble strapless dress (adorned with Shyana's electric yellow belt) plumbing her signature red 40's lipstick. After her was Robin (who had the fastest change of outfits backstage.. yikes) who is in the real estate business and she sported my gray skirt with a white knit cardigan and my husband's green scarf.

Speaking of my husband, Tim, he was my inspiration for this whole line- the desire to help him support us financially. I sewed about 20 pieces to sell at Rag with garment names from all the different street's he's worked on with his paint company (Broadmoor, Francisco, Ocean...). It was also the first fashion show that my work has been in that he has attended. That was probably the best part of the whole show!

Oliver Spencer & Operations

2008-10-06T19:13:00.000-07:00

Operations and Oliver Spencer are two brands that we carry at our store, Nomads here in the city of San Francisco. Here's tour of them.

Operations was started by three fashion design students and friends who while touring Europe checked out some intriguing work wear worn by a union worker. Apparently, they put more effort into theirs then over here! They took some of those over to NY and started selling them- soon realizing that they were not very practical for everyday use, and heck, why not make a men and women's line based off of these? Exactly what they did. And still are as that fact stands. They feature fine fabrics, reinforced pockets, work inspired, with bright fabric details, clothing all locally made in New York. Their web site is www.operationsny.com. Beautiful. Check it out.

Secondly, Oliver Spencer. Founded in 2002 by an English boy named Oliver Spencer. He was a "swan eater" as my boss puts it (rich) and worked for a tuxedo company, where he learned his great tailoring skills. From here, he wanted to branch off into more of a street wear design project and his brand was born. Most of his pieces are made there in England, with a few scarfs from Italy. One of his bigger, semi-underground breaks was being the costume designer for the movie Snatch. Good movie, funny accents. Anyways, his pieces are very historical, and well researched. Such as in the Fall 2008 line including a 30's Officer jacket that was modeled from you guessed it, a 30's officer's jacket. Latest news is they just opened a store in London! Wish I could check that one out soon...

Week One at the Atelier

2008-10-02T09:12:00.000-07:00

Last Monday was the first day of my internship with couture designer, Colleen Quen. I had been to her atelier before, taking a 8 or 9 week skirt making class with my previous roommate; so the scene wasn't new. Yet it was new embarking on patterns for her clients.
I got there and she had me work in the sewing room with Tess, the amazing seamstress, on copying one of her travel ready to wear pieces from the summer of 2005 that is a staple piece in her collection. The pattern had been used repeatedly and needed to be made into a copy. I made two, and then learned how to "grow" one for a client.
She took me to Basil Thai and lovelying caught up on my life as I did hers. She amazingly remembered all these details about me, my husband, my family, and was eager to hear all that I said. It was great hearing insights by her, about her beliefs of meditating, to her love to design. I felt very edified, enriched, and comfortable the whole time.
When I got back, I worked on making a hat pattern for Alonzo King from Alonzo King's Line Ballet. He was being presented with his 2nd Annual Mayor's Art Award from Mayor Gavin and wanted a new hat. He has these two African hats (which reminded me of sailor/army hats from the 40's) and he wanted a new one in this gold linen type fabric. Here is a picture of him and his white hat that I made a copy of. Just so you know, this hat is 23 1/2" around, with the brim that stands 3" tall and the middle piece stretching out (if fully stretched) to 5 1/4".

Out on the Market

2008-10-02T08:38:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I dropped off my creations at RAG in Hayes Valley. Sigh of relief, yes. It was neat to see the clothes hanging there on their rack, with my tags, and prices, etc etc. There were six different looks and a total of nineteen pieces. I should of taken a picture of it, but I guess it will be stored in my mind file.

Local Hayes Trends

2008-09-22T13:58:00.000-07:00

This past weekend, I noticed some frequent styles being worn. One would be stripes, lots of them, mainly in women's shirts, and mainly white and navy nautical stripes. Some had on gray and white stripes from American Apparel, as well as more fancy ones. This could be more of a transition between Summer and Fall since Nautical can be a safe choice in alot of seasons.
The other trend I spotted is curly hair. Some was definitely natural, some maybe not- yet either way. There were so many men, women and babies with curly hair last weekend walking around Hayes Valley.

Window Display at Nomads

2008-09-16T16:31:00.000-07:00

Late last week I was able to design and install the new Fall window display at Nomads Clothing and Accessories in Hayes Valley. It was my first official time, and I enjoyed it. I'm sure there are things that could be fixed, but working with what we had I was okay with it.

My family helped me with all the beautiful wood from home, as well as the genuine bird nest holding the Baxter products instead of baby birds. Other things featured in the window and Nixon watches, Toy Me jewelery, Jack Spade bags, Kanvis pants and shirts, Operations jacket, G-Star pants and bag, and who can't forget, locally made bow-ties!

New Eyecandy

2008-09-05T20:50:00.000-07:00

I'm not a big BCBG Max Azria fan, but either I've been ignorant, or have fortunate timeing because this Spring 2009 RTW Spring line is specatular. I' m not sure if it was the fabrics, the silhoettes, the colors, or those dang models that I loved most.

The reviews said it had a lot of 90's minimalist elemets (such as those by Calvin Klein), yet I saw it more as a Junya Watanabe drape art. Very inspiring for my Spring line, as I was dwelling on that and pleats. I guess the influences don't only come from Japan ;).

Out of the Blue

2008-08-29T21:09:00.000-07:00

Just to keep things interesting....

I have officially agreed to let RAG in San Francisco host 10-25 of my designs this fall. I've been busy figuring out what the best matches will be. On top of that, I got chosen (among other designers at RAG) to have two looks in the Yerba Buena Center of Arts fashion show this October 11th!

Right after finding that out, I get a call from a 619 area code number on my cell. I didn't know who it was but it turns out its John Campbell (CEO of Matuse Surfing co. in San Diego) who I had contacted months previous about a school project. He was calling to say hi, see how things were, but also to ask me if I could come help the teaem next weekend at a trade show down in San Diego. I had told him previously that I wanted to maybe come and intern for a week, or at least see the company in action, in person. It can't work out this time, but they do have another show in January that I really want to help out with. Not only would traveling down there be fun, but its neat experiance concerning fashion in a sense, surfing, sustaining fabrics (their wetsuits are made from linmestone), and another trade show that is more on the sports side (with brands like Nike, Adidas, and Billabong there) rather than higher fashion. So we'll see.... Its cool that he thought of me. (www.matuse.com)

Ruitton-Vei

2008-08-27T09:06:00.000-07:00

As of recently, Marc Jacob of Louis Vuitton has combined forces with Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons. Two masterminds here to produce bags that people will pay thousands of dollars for and the media will chatter over.

I do respect Marc in that way for his effort (and successful) to keep things fresh, whether its the help of Rei or a mistake in the sewing department that he embraces- he makes that effort.

This is a different kind of fashion blog, other fanatics can cover different aspects of the Vuitton-Kawakubo crossing, but here is my first thought of the news.

I could imagine Marc, in his straggly t-shirt, his big glasses, and his cigarette (or a few) sitting at a table with Adrian Joffe (Rei's husband, and president of Comme des Garcons) and boom, this idea comes. He calls up Rei (because he can of course) and goes from there- hence, breaking the barrier between these two very polar designers. Its strange enough that Rei says, "alright."

My husband and I were analyzing a big situation like this last night. We were talking about what it must have been like for Mary to hear from Gabriel that she was going to give birth to Jesus the Christ. I know, totally different, but hear me out.

She could of been sitting at a table, in her straggly dress- I don't know. But its interesting to think about no doubt, since I wasn't there, nor was I at Marc's table.

That was my parallel. Not as fashiony as you might assume, but hey, it's Jesus. In my world you can relate everything to Him.

Black Power

2008-08-25T08:37:00.000-07:00

This morning I was greeted with the fact that "icy blue hue"d jeans are the new denim style for next Spring. Its always strange when things like this happen, I usually think at that time "oh, that, naw, I won't wear that" and always do later on (except I'm not going to wear metallic shoes- those I meant).

I'm planning on purchasing some Naked and Famous Jeans (www.nakedandfamousdenim.com) here in the near future. They feature Japan denim yet are made in Canada. I'm not sure which fit I'll get, they have 4 for women, but their denim is amazing. Its clean, simple, and made to last, actually made not to wash for about 6 months. I love the dark wash, as well as the long inseam. But dark.

Business Time

2008-08-24T20:44:00.000-07:00

Well- Looks like I'm able to sustain my art with some greens- possibly. Eitherway, there are some plans in the near future to get more experience under my belt.

Some of my designs will be sold at RAG (stands for Residents Apparel Gallery) co-op on Octavia Street here in San Francisco (www.ragsf.com). I'm excited, and a little anxious about that!

Lastly, my new aunt will be having me sew her 1940's style dress for her birthday this upcoming October for some extra income. I'm excited about that as well, not as anxious because I'll be using a Vogue pattern, where as the rest will be with my own crafty-hand.

On the Radar

2008-08-21T08:17:00.000-07:00

As of the past few months, I've been an employee at Nomads (Men's clothing and accessories) in Hayes Valley here in San Francisco. This man came up to me last weekend, holding two pairs of jeans (Kanvis and Naked and Famous brands), plopped them on the counter and said "tell me everything you know about these. Backstories please." As a designer, and a talker, that excited me because I feel that wearers of the clothes should know about the designer or company that put them together.

So this morning is a little education. For you. For me.

Today, I'm looking into two designer teams today which are new to me. They are Form and then Lutz & Patmos.
Form was started by the visionary, Jerry Tam. Jerry works with two other men that have architectural background- thus importing various aspects into the design process as well as two assignment designers to round things out. They are based in New York with stores around the globe. I really like their "Bio" document, very structured and clear on their purpose and priorities. Their web site is www.formnewyork.com and this is a silk chiffon dress (seen above) of theirs featured in WWD yesterday from their spring/summer 2008 line. In all seriousness- look at their art, I am impressed with their ability to combine architectural elements in a garment. Something I look at and strive for at times. It must be nice with 5 people or more on a team though which is probably how they can put out so many seasons (they had a prespring line as well).

Lutz & Patmos also based in NY. Two girls (seen below) who met in 1995 and started business in 2000. Tina Lutz is German with experience from all over global cities. Marcia Patmos is an East coast native with a passion to design as well. What I appreciated as a fashion design student about their web site is that their relatively simple products were tagged along with a picture of the garment, then an Adobe Illustrator picture. Which is really what some designers work with until the final product can be photographed. It's neat to see their professional ones. Their website is www.lutzandpatmos.com. I can't show you the pictures I was talking about (do to copy & paste issues)- so feel free to go browse!

Finished & Gone

2008-08-18T23:28:00.000-07:00

Tonight my husband, friend, and I were all reminiscing, whether it was the music they played a few years back, or their hair a few months back- and again, the age old tale- "oh man, why did I...?!"

I thought about my wedding day (August 1st) and didn't try that hard not to date it but wondered what we would inevitably think about it in the years to come. My hair, his scruff, my dress, his tie.... But the bridesmaid's dresses? I know, its going to come, I will have my moment of most likely thinking "eh..." but here's the deal now.

It was worth while seeing my images in my head become supporting articles that my closest girlfriends could wear. I enjoyed the variety of lightweight voile with hand dyed splotches. They looked beautiful in motion...

The Parrots Got it Going On

2008-08-06T21:46:00.000-07:00

Rainbow colors is right-WWD. I'm not sure if I'm just in a good mood, or if the pet store has influenced my color attitude, but I am totally digging these bright colors in the 2009 resort lines.

My husband (new to say) and I on our honeymoon the other day went in to the coolest pet store. Every corner we turned there was another amazing creature that we loved to admire. The turtles, the hamsters, the birds. Now the birds were shocking me in the color spectrum. I mean I'm not a bird lover (bird appreciator -yes) but I could not stop gazing at these colors, turquoises, reds, yellows, pinks, blues, the combos were endless it seemed.

I wonder if these designers got any inspiration from these birdies... I know I would have.

"Be my Maids"

2008-06-02T23:40:00.000-07:00

Real briefly here, just an outline really. The bridesmaid dresses are moving along. Even if its just in my mind! I've been working on the pattern, and I'm meeting with Colleen Quen next week to run the design idea by here and to soak up her patternmaking skills (oh if only it was that easy).

Here's a rough picture to give you a more visual idea of what these dresses will look like.

Hussein's Change

2008-06-01T23:31:00.001-07:00

As a flash back to the origins of this blog, I want to bring your attention to Hussein Chalayan's transforming and metamorphosing garments. I based my idea inspired from Japanese designers on this concept, in a different manner than Hussein (who I believe is an Italian designer), yet same overall idea- minus the technology. There are many more videos on you tube about him and his Fall 2007 line, check it out.

Rock My Boat

2008-06-01T10:02:00.000-07:00

Its interesting to see where I'm inspired.

Connie Snyder gave me this velvety blank notebook a few years back to do whatever I chose with- I've used it as my ideas and artistic inspirational encyclopedia. And that I have, I thought I'd use it even more while I'm here in San Francisco actually attending Fashion school and having a closer range with the career and gifts that God has enlightened me with. But that's not quite the case.

I have written some good ideas, but I realized more clearly today that I don't really derive my inspiration from these other beautiful forms in life, or "nature" as so many people do. I do suck up ideas from nature, but more so human's sinful nature portrayed against my Lord's glory.

I tend to scribble in this battered notebook of mine when I am closest to God. Such as yesterday- I spent the day in Modesto with my finace's family. His aunt and uncle were missionaries in Ecuador for quite some years and I was privileged to browse through his picturs, mainly from the 70's. They were so motivating and inspiring. Now only the colors, the mountains, the smiles, but the stories behind them, the people who are sitting in those pictures, and how they have devoted themselves to Christ.

Then this morning I listened to a sermon by pastor Tonye of Calvery Church in Morro Bay and he ended out his talk speaking about letting God use us. He gave the vivid example of how sometimes we forget that we aren't just supposed to be decorations on a boat, looking pretty hanging there- "oh, those are nice rings on the side of the boat". We remember when someone is drowning outside the boat and we freak out "I don't know what to do!" but let us be thrown out, let Him push us, then let us pull us back with the life of another, let us get their dirty hands on us, let us feel their pain, let us be used.

Gives a whole new meaning to that nautical look...

Lacis

2008-05-05T14:24:00.000-07:00

In Berkley last week, I went to a place called Lacis, most of you are probably familar with that place. It was neat. It had that old lady, antique smell to it. But was very educational.
My head was swarming partly because there are so many details and things to look at there. I left feeling like everything i've made is lacking quality and was made too quickly. I laughed. Seriously though. The craftsmanship is amazing despite that I am not a big lace lover- I can still appreciate that.

Tornado Provide Clothes

2008-05-05T14:04:00.000-07:00

Last quarter- I got the chance to do something else beneficiary to match the par of this quarter's $300 input to SF's homeless (via Discarded to Divine).

A lady at Mission Bay Community Church here in the city spoke out to pray for the students at Union University in Jackson Tenn. because on Feb. 5 of this year, a EF-5 Tornado hit the school there leaving upside-down cars, and destroyed housing.

I wanted to do something.... hmmm.... what would you do? You are surrounded by talented youngsters who have a passion for fashion?

We collaborated and joined clothing forces to send some to those at Union University to help the need in a way that we are specialized in.

Matty and Emily of Distilled donated about 6 heavy canvas black "worker" jackets with quilted lining from their previous lines, Rachel Poulos donated a few men and women tees from the Rad Factory, Coral made an amazing salmon colored tee with custom hand touches, and I put my touch in there with a sweater and a few personal items I'd made.

Bruce, the pastor at MBCC sent it off and our prayers went with it. (to read more check out this small article at http://www.worldmag.com/articles/13765)

Brief Intermission

2008-05-05T13:58:00.000-07:00

Although- These do not have much connection with other things, here is a short update on my sewing machines latest children.

I made this melton wool bubble skirt with 2 unpressed pleats resting on my front hip bones with a green polka dot lining on the inside.

The other creation is a pair of jeans- 98% cotton, 2% spandex (next pair will be all spandex! oh no...) that I learned in class. This was an adventure- never having before sewn jeans, it was a nice journey, that thankfully turned out pretty successful. Sorry for the funny pictures that don't work out too well (its hard to take pictures of the jeans on yourself without a full length mirror)

August it Is

2008-05-05T13:48:00.001-07:00

As the good news of my life- I'm getting married this upcoming August first to my amazing groom Timothy Snyder!! So with the knowledge that I am a novice fashion designer- questions arise about me making my own wedding dress. To that, I have another answer (I'm changing some stuff to the one I got) yet I am making the bridesmaid's dresses. All 5 (with the help of talented friends and family) And I am very excited (and a little anxious) about that I must admit.

First- I'd like you to meet the players.
We have my Matron of Honor, the great, one and only Charlotte Scott (who will have tiny Linus or Emiko inside her), the intelligent and gorgeous Karen DeRoss, the gracious and powerful Jessica Wilden and the flower girls (aka, older sissy), the spunky and loving Jasmine Shelvock, and lastly, but so closely, the inspiring and goofy Hannah Hervieux!

Soon I'll show you some of my plans for the dresses! Stay posted.

Lost Soul

2008-05-05T13:36:00.001-07:00

As a recap and resolution- The idea with this blog is to keep record of my ins and outs with the fashion industry of San Francisco (and anywhere else it might take me). This blog is meant to be a jumble of the concepts I concieve, to the shows I participate it, to the events I attend, and the things I learn whether that be trends or talents.

I've been more focused on my other blog than this one- with my wedding and midterms going on, but I've re-captured my passion for the Semantics, and will feed it and nourish it only after I do that to myself and those around me.

I would love to re-cap my events with Stephanie's fashion show, and all the fun happenings with the Discarded to Divine, the De Young, and the homeless, but I'll let you do that research for yourself on my other blog at www.asoakedbraininautumn.blogspot.com. For the rest however, the present and future, it will be found here. So keep your laptops open.

DJchoochoo

2008-05-05T13:26:00.000-07:00

My arm candy, Mo, and I went to a private party in the back of a bar off of 16th and Valencia Street over in the Mission District.

It was a collaborative celebration for Distilled, and innovative local mens wear company and Nomads an original men's boutique on Hayes Street. The owner of Nomads was in front of the bar being DJ, with a little help from Mr. Henry Emmett (Son of Matty and Emily Merrill of Distilled) aka DJ Choo Choo. In the back there was a musty air of a foreign bar (I guess I wouldn't know what that's really like) with golden lights flickering in the wooden walls. On another wall was a projection of Distilled's Spring line's fashion show with Gen Art.

They had drinks, look books, nerdy pencils, and good company. I was excited because my friend Rachel (called Coonize by her homies) had her first day of Interning at Distilled (mighty good idea I must input).

Mo and I didn't stay too long, but we enjoyed getting the flavor in our mouths. It was fun to go somewhere and know some of the people there. I was so excited to hear that Sep (bus partner of Matty) was engaged and that I might have an in at Nomads.

What's next?

2008-03-12T11:51:00.000-07:00

As for the future of this clothing statement-

I plan to construct a few of these moving and transforming outfits and then photograph them on top of Twin Peaks in San Francisco. The reason I chose that location is because there is constant movement up there due to the wind. I want this to aid in the metamorphosis of my garments. So keep an eye out on this site for future progress.

Miyama Ryu

2008-03-12T11:42:00.000-07:00

Miyama Ryu is a style of Combat Jujutsu. The English translation is the school of the "three mountains." I used this type of martial arts to describe my last dress that I designed because there are three continuous web-like structures that cross throughout the dress.

I wanted to find a way to incorporate this movement from an architectural building into fabric and it is kept unique and different from every viewpoint that is taken.

Kata

2008-03-12T11:34:00.000-07:00

Kata comes from a Japanese word describing detailed choreographed patterns of movements practiced either solo or in pairs. Kata are used in many traditional Japanese arts such as theater forms like kabuki and schools of tea ceremony, but are most commonly known for the presence in the martial arts.

This dress is derived from any bodily movement that has is base at the spinal cord. Without this, amazing movement would not be able to take place, as I'm sure we all realize. This dress is in appreciation and awe of the astonishing craftsmanship and design that God has implanted in each human.

Aikido

2008-03-12T11:28:00.000-07:00

Aikido, one of the more common martial art practices, means the "way of unifying life with energy" It is a grappling art characterized by the redirection of attacks, and is primarily defensive in nature.

Some influence of Junya Watanabe's drapery can be seen in this one. From subtle to all-encompassing, this moving garment goes from a drab smoky gray to a flaming red all of the same jersey knit.

This is the ultimate split of something pointless to something meaningful tied together with a gauzing white tube top underneath.

Gendai Budo

2008-03-12T11:19:00.000-07:00

Gendai Budo means the "modern martial way", is a Japanese expression that is used to define the modern Japanese martial arts.

The movemenet and transformation idea came from wings and the flow of fabric as one moves in it, such as martial arts, or dancing. This mini dress is made out of a knit jersey that will conform to the body whether the cape is tied in the back or spread wide revealing the bright red.

Judo

2008-03-12T11:06:00.000-07:00

Judo means the "gentle way."It is a modern Japanese martial art that originated in the late nineteenth century.

I titled this dress "Judo" because the movement is slight, but significant. The collar is over exaggerated but can detach and move down the back revealing the bright yellow on the inside. Whether the collar is around the neck, or used as a fancy eye catcher in the back it keeps up its sporty but elegant look.

Koryu Bujutsu

2008-03-12T10:53:00.000-07:00

Koryu Bujutsu is translated from Japanese as "staff technique." It is the martial art of using a staff weapon called bō which simply means "stick."

Another take on transformation in unique silhouettes is this jacket and pants (that remind me of horse riding pants) combo. The jacket, gray on the outside, has a back extention with a maroon color underneath. It is attached at the collar and can be unhitched to change into an evening train.

To match this movement, the pants, buttoned down in the front, fold out to reveal the knit off-white pants underneath, and drape fabric down the front to match the flow in the back.

Jojutsu

2008-03-12T10:04:00.001-07:00

Jojutsu means "the way of the jo” which is a Japanese martial art using short staffs called jō.

This short dress can be worn closed in the front with the majority of gray showing and the blue hexagon pockets. Then when a change is wanted the front unhooks and folds around to the back, revealing the bright green color as well as the geometric sleeves which can be unfolded and attached in the back.

Walking up the back is a mesh of straps that resemble almost a twig like staircase disappearing off into the sky- or your neck.

Movement and Transformation

2008-03-12T08:54:00.000-07:00

I designed eight pieces influenced by these Japanese designers and their recent lines. With this blog, you've been able to to see my thought process through Japanese culture to architecture and of course; fashion.

In the blog below, most of my inspiration and forecast is shown, and in the blogs to come, are the descriptions and drawings of my designs.

I designed each outfit with two things in mind; Movement and Transformation. The title of each garment is a name of a Japanese martial art- the method of training the body in different forms of movement for defense and honor.

In two of my drawings the dress doesn't transform, but it based solely on the method of movement. One with continual web-like beams around the body, and the other structured from a spinal cord.

The transformation idea was inspired by the verse in Roman's 12:2 that says "do not be conformed to this world but be transformed by the renewing of your mind."

Six of my design tends to be a little more drab on the outside, such as gray, black, or off-white, then with a few maneuvers, can transform to show color and shape. The "new person" is shown, the brighter side is out, and transformation has taken place.

Autumn's Formula

2008-03-11T12:03:00.000-07:00

The task of fashion forecasting has it's place, yet let me focus it on a narrower pin-point. Forecasting my designs influenced by these Japanese designers that I have recently reviewed.
Colors were influenced by Comme des Garcon's orangy-red, Yohji Yamamoto's bright blues, Y-3's rich black, and Issey Miyake's yellows, gray, and even more red.

I took the draped jersey from Junya Watanabe, and "bum" rolls from Mr. Yamamoto's line into my Aikido dress. High collars and hexigons from Issey went into my Jojutsu dress as well as his cape like pleat dress and three other cape-like outfits by Yohji into my Koryu Bujutsu outfit as well as the Gendai Budo dress.

Other silhouettes were seen from Yohji's new NY flagship, and strappy lines on the back of the Jojutsu dress from the "invisible" bag.

Fall Formula

2008-03-11T09:22:00.000-07:00

The trends that these Japensese fashion designers put for this fall were not very connected at all. They ranged from alot of muted colors (which many American, Italian, and French designers do as well) and blacks, and grays by Junya and Yohji Yamamoto. However, some colors did pop like the reds by Comme des Garcons, oranges in Y-3, and the yellows in Issey Miyake.
Higher necklines were seen in about all of these, with the occational open coat look by Dai Fujiwara as well. Headpieces were seen in a similar variety from the extreme "block heads" by Junya to gauze sacks in Issey Miyake, down to the fur hats of Rei Kawakubo and baseball caps in Y-3. That could of been just a runway accessory, or a statement about the current use of headwear.

Up and Dai the Spectrum

2008-03-09T18:08:00.000-07:00

With designer Issey Miyake hitting 70 years this year, we get to watch Dai Fujiwara design under the renowned and honored name of Issey Miyake. He showed in Paris this past February 26^th with a distinct pattern of colors and fabrics. He started off with tan-whites, advancing down the spectrum to the gray scale of grays and blacks. Once he hit blacks, there was no where to go except out from there. In with the daffodil yellows, subtle green prints, wine red, and back around with a blink of sea turquoise. Later on there were some prints to incorporate the mix of these colors, but overall there where no thick, heavy jackets and wool skirts to be seen here. There were a lot of full length arms shown, with drastic chest to be seen, or none at all with necklines pulled tight.

Near the end I felt that I forgot if I was looking at creations by Junya Watanabe because of the gauze dresses that matched the head pieces. They reminded me of a mix between colorless matchsticks and kids who run around barefoot with a paper trash bag on their head, playing aliens or something. I wonder what Dai Fujiwara thought- maybe it was supposed to be a veil since he drew inspiration from Finnish weddings.

My favorite pieces (besides the color story in general) were these strange wire “indivisible” bags being carried; at times they looked like they were drawn on the picture with a sharpie. Other shapes seemed to be played with and folded uniquely. I can’t help but mention how strange it was that there was that one turquoise dress. I couldn’t find any other turquoise in the whole line- but that’s more how life is, there’s usually that one shining person in about… 47 lets say.

Summary- I believe that Dai kept the tradition (or more like moral) of prioritizing geometric structure and function of new ways to construct researched fabrics. Way to race for “ichiban” (meaning "the best" in Japanese).

Aside from this line, I included a video of Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara's "a -poc inside" (meaning a piece of cloth) which is a line that they do made from computer programmed industrial knitting and weaving machines that make clothes all out of one piece of fabric. These fabric pieces have the shape and pattern of the garment already built into it. It is "an idea that totally overthrows the standard of making clothes." Thread goes in and comes out as a garment, this is how they maybe see the world- and that explains a lot (or rather nothing at all in my language- either way, the video is trippy).

On the Corner

2008-03-09T17:25:00.000-07:00

Two days after he showed in NY, Yohji Yamamoto of Y-3 unveiled his flagship in the Meatpacking District (317 West 13^th Street and 1 Gansevoort Street) with plans of another one in Soho this March. His Y-3 store opened across the way of his Yohji Yamamoto store in a triangular building with lots of brick and windows. He transformed a strangely shaped building (the weird green one to the left) into his beauty of 1,300 square feet with the stock room across the square. Be prepared customers when you ask to see a different size of a garment, “Yes ma’am, I’ll be right back” and out through the front door the sales person goes.

The architect designer is Junya Ishigami who also designed this piece called "Cuboid balloon" that displayed in an exhibition called "Space for your future" showed at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo.

(Photos and info found at www.nitrolicious.com/blog/2008/02/06/yohji-yamamoto-y-3-
joint-store-opening-event/)

Y- three times in NY

2008-03-05T18:20:00.000-08:00

New York has been a happening place for Yohji this February and March.

I was in NY, pier 92 to be exact, for the men’s Blue tradeshow in January. I wish I could have been at Pier 40 last week to see Yohji’s 230x12 feet tall wall of ice, nicknamed a “glacial installation,” for his Y-3 Fall 2008/2009 show. His slippery stage was covered with the usual baggy, draped, and sporty Yohji style. Just more colorful than his personal line shown in Paris.

Some of the looks gave the impression of a ski resort being right around the corner from the runway. However- some of them did look like runoffs of the famous Charlie Chaplin (as Style.com compared) with lower crotches and thicker scarves.

One of Yohji’s many talents is his ability to paint a dichotomy of extreme opposites. He folds his warm clothes out in this chilly atmosphere with a perfect balance. It’s a good marketing strategy to make everyone in the crowd chilly and wanting to wear the cozy clothing. He included a lot of plaids with his classic dark blacks and navy’s. Even then however, Yohji tossed in the colorful sparks of oranges in the shoe ties or the tights.

There were other accessories included, as well as water bottle canteens, and large bags, hopefully for that long weekend in Tahoe.

Really Rei?

2008-03-03T08:43:00.000-08:00

I am amazed by designers who can get away with "bad taste" and get good reviews for it. I supposed that is when the garment industry crosses over from a good dollar maker to the art region. Think of Rei Kawakubo more as an artist who has established herself, that she can make a difference by doing the exact opposite of what she might of started off her business doing.

The Tim Burton movie the Corpse Bride had love- a little strange and dark like this. It seemed like the torn up pieces used to be a nice (or at least in tact-maybe not classy) dress. It was fun to see her spin-off and insult of the hundreds of petticoats we’ve seen from the 50’s, as well as cute little dance dresses all about sweet love (notice the hearts) and polka dots as well as hidden underwear we’ve all grown up with. Toss in some braids and fur hats and we have some type of a Russian heritage.

In the Fall of 2005, she took another hit on “love” with a scary line of brides as well. Both of her lines didn’t strike me-but she seems to be able to grab attention and get her morbid, rebellious points across. It makes me laugh to imagine what Rei Kawakubo must be like behind the seams on her Fall 2008 line. On a review on WWD, they said that “Kawakubo isn’t the lovely-dovey girl next door. Even her most amorous affairs are riddled with perverse.”

Seemed like it was more of a rebellious statement about the vodoo of bad taste then an attempt at a beautiful alliance.

A Beautiful Melancholy

2008-03-02T14:31:00.000-08:00

My first thought when I looked at the girls walking down the runway for Junya Watanabe’s Fall 2008 show in Paris was, “there has to be a good explanation for this!” Junya Watanabe is a very shy designer, well I should say person, not designer. He speaks loudly through his clothing yet about the only words people could get out of him for this season was “geometric sculpture”.

This is a man who visualizes a concept and sticks to it. His seasons vary so much but within that, stay the same. His designs do change from look to look in this past Paris show displaying subtle complexities between the charcoal marled gray knits and wool suiting and a touch of floral as they were wrapped and twisted in ingenious new ways. Kind of a morbid twist meets modern elegance with veiled visages and gloves. Yet I’m sure there was a slight hint of comedy by the people who had to make these bizarre patterns and then sew these garments, or those who had to help dress the models- “Which one is which? Is that my folded jersey draped over there?”

Junya championed this silhouette over the obstacle that it is difficult stretch out the body past a certain point, and draw that sculptural line even longer. I was also impressed by his mix of basically two fabrics (the knit jersey and a wool suiting) with no accessories just to make sure that every piece held its own weight. There was no need for gaudyness, he just needed to satisfy a craving for new tailor ship in new silhouettes. I feel like Mr. Watanabe took one fabric and truly pushed it to its extent. Then, just to make sure we noticed that, he strapped on some Carmen Miranda’s on the model’s head. This helped me focus on the dress and the creations itself by detaching the personality of the models- or should I say canvases.

Later on, more weaves and suiting was shown, as well as a face or two. It seemed to me that these later fabrics were harder to manipulate in such a freestyle form. Rather they seem to just have a bizarre fit. However, it was a non-traditional reformation of the classic suit. His line was an interesting mix of the type of fabric you might see a college-age girl wearing in the form of mass produced sweat pants, and then a professional businesswoman wearing a wool suit. His took both and combined these ideas to prove that these fabrics are not limited to what the consumer’s use them for-traditionally.